Why not natural dyes?

All of our Fair Indigo and Joobles products use Oeko-tex certified dyes – among the safest, most gentle commercial dyes available and free from Azo colourants, formaldehyde, pentachlorophenol, cadmium, and nickel, among other harmful chemicals.

Yarns

We’re sometimes asked if we have considered using “natural” or vegetable-based dyes. The simple answer is yes, we have, but we’ve concluded it’s not a great idea. A little-known fact about vegetable dyes is that in order for them to adhere properly to fabric, they need to be applied with a mordant. A mordant is a polyvalent metal ion, which itself contains a cocktail of several harsh chemicals.

 

Absent using the mordant, the vegetable dye color is going to wash out of the garment a little each time you wash it until, over time, it’s a fraction of the intensity it started at.

 

Natural indigo dye is an exception and doesn’t require a mordant, but it’s extremely expensive and not readily available in Peru where we make our garments. It also fades over time like other natural dyes.

 

The Lost Cotton of the Incas

5000 years ago the Incas had this all figured out. Inca cotton grew in multiple color shades right from the seed. We were fortunate enough to see a small collection of this cotton at our recent visit to the Amano Pre Colombian Textile Museum in Lima. Unfortunately the Spanish conquerers saw little use for the colored cotton and took it out of circulation after several generations. While a handful of the seeds are in circulation today, the quality of what remains is generally not strong enough for commercial garments. There are many in Peru who believe the Lost Cotton (seeds) of the Incas are still out there, hidden in forgotten corners of the Andes. A quest for these elusive seeds seems worthy of an epic hiking trip through Peru or maybe even a major motion picture!

 

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Natural colored cotton yarns at the Amano Pre Colombian Textile Museum in Lima, Peru

 

Fine Print

We’ve long wanted to develop prints for our organic Pima cotton knits. You might be wondering what we’ve waited for and what even makes this worth talking about. For small businesses like ours, printing on fabric is often hamstrung by steep minimum order requirements that most printers need to make it efficient and worth their while.

 

To get around this, we thoughtfully design our prints to be, like our clothing, Forever in Fashion. Not something that is “so 2017” that you won’t want to wear it in 2018 and beyond. Timeless, pretty, understated.

 

Also, any printer we work with has to share our commitment to using safe, earth-friendly dyes. Ours are water-based. The quality needs to be impeccable – smooth and soft, not brittle and flaky. It has to endure beautifully through years of washing.

 

Our first print – “Medallion” – delivers. The facility we are working with is the only GOTS-certified fabric mill in Peru. The intricate but uncomplicated design is utterly wearable. Today and for years to come.

Shop our Prints (and Stripes too!)

 

3 ways to advance the revolution

This week is Fashion Revolution Week – a yearly campaign that started as a remembrance for the 2013 Rana Plaza factory collapse in Bangladesh and has evolved into a global movement calling for greater transparency, sustainability and ethics in the fashion industry.

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From the TV series ‘Sweatshop: Dead Cheap Fashion

So how do we bring about a real revolution in the fashion industry? Despite the meaningful contributions fair trade is making, it will take more than better safety inspections, more stringent labor standards, and less toxic materials.

 

A Fashion Revolution has to start with how we think about clothes. Over the past few decades, the price we pay for clothing has gotten lower and lower in relation to our incomes, enticing us to buy more and more. In fact, today we buy an eye-popping 5x more clothing than we did in 1980. There’s a steep human and ecological cost to this flood of cheap clothes. While it’s often warranted, it’s too easy to point our collective fingers at large corporations whose products are found in places like Rana Plaza. If we’re honest with ourselves, we can see our appetite for cheaper, faster, and more creates the conditions that lead to cutting corners. And the losers when corners are cut are workers and the environment. In other words all of us.

 

Demanding a supplier be socially compliant and then turning around and pressuring them to shave $3 off the price of each sweater is not sustainable math.

 

To evolve fashion forward, we have to start challenging the whole concept of “Fast Fashion” that’s been looming over the industry for years. There are three ways to hone our way of thinking about clothes that will go a long way in building a more sustainable future.

 

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Try Timeless. Shifting your shopping habits from “what can I wear now?” to “what can I wear now, and for years to come?” will not only save earthly resource, it’ll save you time and money too. By carefully selecting timeless silhouettes in colors you feel good in you’ll get more mileage out of your closet. If that feels like a pretty big baby step for your fashionista tendencies, you can still work timeless pieces into your wardrobe and then embellish them with fresh accessories each season.

 

Quest for Quality. Seek out quality fabrics that endure for longer than one season. If your timeless garment looks bad after a few months of washing and wearing, it’s not truly timeless. Pima cotton is a great option. Its long staple fibers are stronger (and softer) than almost any other cotton and will last through many seasons of washing and wearing. At Fair Indigo, we take the uncommon extra step of pre-washing most of our fabrics before cutting and sewing, insuring that all of the shrinking happens before it’s crafted into a garment. This prevents twisting, torquing, and puckering around the seams after you wash it at home.

 

Free Yourself from the Fashion Police. Every day we’re bombarded with messages about this season’s must have bag, the color of the year that everyone will be wearing, or what this or that celebrity was spotted wearing and why you need that thing, now. Free yourself from all this noise and allow your better instincts to inform you. Do you want to look your best and feel like your wardrobe is up-to-date? Of course. Do you want to dabble in the more trendy side of fashion? Sometimes, sure, or maybe not. But at the end of the day, you know what clothes make you look how you want to look and feel how you want to feel. Don’t let the Fast Fashion czars dictate to you what you want.

Showing up

An important part of fair trade is showing up. Email and Skype are not enough. Building meaningful face-to-face relationships with our suppliers is part of our manifesto. That often means persisting through good times and bad, and learning from the bad times to build something even stronger.

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We visited our main supplier in Peru earlier this month to work on some pretty exciting things.

 

First, starting this fall, the mill that knits, dyes, and washes our fabrics will be GOTS-certified (Global Organic Textile Standard) – the first and only fabric mill in Peru to achieve this very stringent standard. Our organic cotton fiber has always been GOTS-certified; our dyes have always been certified safe too. But this piece certifies the process is as safe and eco-friendly as can be, including recycling or treating 100% of the water used in the facility.

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Second, we’ve wanted to do this for a long time, but now we’re very close. 100% bio-degradable and compostable bags for our clothes! Until now, an elusive clincher in trying to build the Greenest Tees on Earth.

Eco-Poly-Bag

In the midst of all this exciting progress, we faced some pretty serious challenges in finishing up our spring production. It should have shipped in early March. As you may have heard, Peru is experiencing  historically heavy rains that’s causing heartbreaking devastation.

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The coastal capital Lima, where our main workshop is, was not directly affected by the rains but is experiencing record-setting heat and humidity in a city that’s usually pretty dry and mild, thanks to the cold Humbolt Current. Most buildings don’t have or need air conditioning, but this past month the heat became unbearable to work in later in the afternoon. Our employees worked shorter shifts.

 

And last week, just as we were in the home stretch, the rivers near Lima overflowed their banks due to the rain upstream. This overwhelmed the city’s water utility and contaminated the water, which had to be shut off for all but a few hours a day as the city crews worked overtime to re-purify the water.

 

Roads connecting Lima to surrounding communities became impassible, including a road that connects our embroidery facility with our main workshop. A couple thousand pieces became stranded at the embroidery facility as a result.

 

All of this is really nothing. We hesitate to even connect delayed clothing production with what’s happening in Peru right now.  The inconvenience we’re feeling can’t be compared to the wrenching situation so many are facing. Everyone in our workshop and their families are thankfully safe. Here are some ways to help. Those of us here in Peru, along with our workshop owners and employees have reached out to local organizations. The relatively unscathed city of Lima has come together in a big way to make it easy to raise funds for relief, using smartphone apps and volunteer canvassers.

 

Today we are finishing up most of the shipment and should have it out the door tomorrow. The units stranded on the other side of the flooded roads – we hope to have soon. So if you notice several “coming soon” items on our website, and other items with limited colors and sizes, thank you for hanging tight while these amazingly strong, industrious, and big-hearted folks push it over the finish line.

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Our Manifesto

From time to time we like to review our manifesto to make sure it accurately reflects the values we set out to live by. Other than going back and forth on the Oxford comma, it has pretty much endured intact. We hope it rings true for what you’re looking for too.

 

WE’RE ALL IN THIS TOGETHER

When fashion is done well, we all prosper. Informed people like you, farmers, herders, garment workers, and the earth we all share.

We believe in BUYING LOCAL as a first choice. When not an option, we believe in choosing FAIR TRADE as often as possible.

Fair Trade means workers are PAID FAIRLY, treated with DIGNITY AND RESPECT, and afforded the means to a HAPPY LIFE.

We believe FAIR TRADE CLOTHING should not only be ethically made, but also thoughtfully designed, beautifully constructed, and fairly priced.

We choose ORGANIC COTTON and EARTH-FRIENDLY MATERIALS whenever possible.

In a world drowning in disposable clothing, we believe SUSTAINABLE FASHION starts with QUALITY fabrics and construction that endure for years.

 We believe a sustainable wardrobe should lean heavily on TIMELESS STYLE, not ‘fast fashion’ fads.

We believe a SUSTAINABLE BUSINESS is built on a foundation of TRUST and lasting RELATIONSHIPS. With our suppliers and with our customers.

And we firmly believe that all of us can CHANGE THE WORLD. Just by changing our clothes.

Longevity

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An often overlooked but critically important element of sustainable clothing is longevity. First, will it last longer than a couple of seasons? Second, do you truly want it to – is it something you’ll wear now and for a long time to come?

 

At Fair Indigo, longevity is always top-of-mind. We use premium yarns and fabrics that will endure through years of wash & wear with minimal pilling. We pre-wash most of our fabrics so the shrinking is done prior to sewing. This uncommon and not inexpensive process prevents shrinking, twisting, and puckering after you wash it

 

And we carefully design each piece to get serious mileage – timeless style that’s Forever in Fashion. It feels great to stop chasing fads and start building a sustainable minimalist wardrobe that’s for keeps.

 

Furoshiki!

Try this easy, eco-friendly alternative to wrapping paper. Here’s an ingenious idea you might like if you want to avoid being knee-deep in wrapping paper this season. It’s based on a centuries-old Japanese fabric folding technique called furoshiki that lets you wrap objects in a piece of cloth – or, as we suggest in an Envirosax Bag. It might look a bit daunting, but watch this video for a quick demonstration. And the bonus with using Envirosax bags instead of simple fabric? The wrapping paper is a gift in itself!